2 Ways to Install an Ice Maker Line
Whether you’re installing a new ice maker or your old line needs upgrading, follow as David Hunt, a master plumber of 35 years, explains how to successfully install a new line and prevent leaks.
Water shut-off. First, shut off your main water line. You can do this at your outdoor water meter or at your hot water heater. Then, drain the water out of the system and introduce air into it by opening a faucet. Now you’re ready for installation. Follow the directions below according to your specific application.
Read More: How to Turn Off Main Water Valve for Plumbing Repairs
Install an Icemaker Line on a Refrigerator
Upgrade your existing line with an Eastman flood defender ice maker connector. This connector comes with a built-in auto-shut-off valve that activates when excess water is detected, protecting your floors and surrounding fixtures. Equipped with an arrow that indicates flow direction, installation is simple, and the only tool required is a pair of channel locks.
Remove the old line. For the best results, straighten the line to get rid of any kinks. Then, unscrew the old line at the ice maker box and again at the refrigerator. Make sure to have a bucket and some towels handy for any water that may leak out.
Install the new line and bleed out the air. When installing, hand-tighten your connection points and use channel locks to snug them all the way. Be careful not to overtighten since this may split the o-ring and cause leaks. After installing your line, it’s important to bleed the air out of the system. If your refrigerator has water and ice dispensers, you can simply turn your water main back on and bleed the air out by tapping on the dispensers.
Install an Icemaker Line on an Under-Counter Icemaker
Consider your current setup. Once you’ve shut your main water line off and opened a faucet to drain the water out, examine your current setup. More than likely, you have a saddle valve that needs replacing. To remove it, use a screwdriver to loosen the valve and drain the water from it. Then, use channel locks to loosen the supply line connection and drain water from this point.
Prep your pipe. Use paper towels to clean the water up and use emery cloth to clean your copper pipes. With copper tubing cutters, cut the copper pipe and leave enough room to install your new fitting. Then, deburr the pipe with a SharkBite Max depth and deburr tool and ensure the pipe is free of debris. Mark your pipe according to the correct insertion depth on the tool or use the depth chart below. Keep in mind that SharkBite (1st Generation) fittings and SharkBite Max fittings have different insertion depths.
SharkBite Fitting Size | Nominal Pipe Size | Pipe OD | SharkBite 1st Generation Insertion Depth | SharkBite Max Insertion Depth |
---|---|---|---|---|
1/4 in. | 1/4 in. CTS | 3/8 in. | 13/16 in. (21 mm.) | |
3/8 in. | 3/8 in. CTS | 1/2 in. | 15/16 in. (24 mm.) | |
1/2 in. | 1/2 in. CTS | 5/8 in. | 15/16 in. (24 mm.) | 1 in. (25 mm.) |
5/8 in. | 5/8 in. CTS | 3/4 in. | 1-1/8 in. (29 mm.) | |
3/4 in. | 3/4 in. CTS | 7/8 in. | 1-1/8 in. (28 mm.) | 1-1/4 in. (32 mm.) |
1 in. | 1 in. CTS | 1-1/8 in. | 1-5/16 in. (33 mm.) | |
1-1/4 in. | 1-1/4 in. CTS | 1-3/8 in. | 1-7/8 in. (48 mm.) | |
1-1/2 in. | 1-1/2 in. CTS | 1-5/8 in. | 2-1/16 in. (52 mm.) | |
2 in. | 2 in. CTS | 2-1/8 in. | 2-3/16 in. (56 mm.) |
Install the new line. Now you can insert a SharkBite Max dual stop valve onto the pipe. After installing your new fitting, reconnect your supply line to the faucet using channel locks. Then, connect an Eastman flood defender ice maker connector to the other side of the dual stop valve. Tighten each side of the connector, one on the dual stop valve and the other on the ice maker. Hand-tighten these connections and use channel locks to snug them completely.
After slowly turning the water main back on, turn a faucet on and check each of your connections for leaks.